Perito Moreno & Las Cuevas de las Manos

From my bus, I was the only one stopping in Perito Moreno (city), and even the driver asked if I was sure about it. I wasn't, but I stayed. On the bus station I asked about how could I go to Las Cuevas, and I was lucky, there was a guide there that was going to do the tour that afternoon with 3 other turists that were waiting in a camping park close by.

It was Saturday, and the next bus to go to El Calafate, where I wanted to go after Perito Moreno, was only leaving on Tuesday. So, I bought a ticket to go to Río Gallegos, leaving at 4.30am, so I just had to wait until then somewhere and I wouldn't have a problem with the lack of hostels (and lack of money, that is starting to feel...).

Don Ugo, the guide, took me to the camping park so that I had a place to stay while waiting. After like 20 minutes of being there, just drinking a mate, 2 guys came in. One came to me asking if I had been in Iguazu, in the Stop Hostel, like 1 month ago. I was kind of "wtf, how do you know?!"... it was the italian guy from Perugia that I met there, now with a beard so I didn't recognise him, and he was also going to Las Cuevas. The other guy that was with him, from USA, had booked the same trip I was going in. However, when Don Ugo arrived sayed there was no place for the italian, all the 4 places in the car were taken, a spanish couple was also coming with us, so he had to stay there.

Don Ugo revealed to be the best guide ever. He really knows the region and told us about the gold and silver mines that are starting to destroy the Cuevas. He even has a website (www.noalamina.org) and is a very fierce activist against the mines that treat to destroy 10.000 year-old paintings.

But moving on, the Cuevas are located in a Canyon, very similar to the Grand Canyon in Colorado. We had to walk down, cross the river and then back up. Fantastic view though, the colors are amazing, and once you get up there, Las Cuevas! 600m of wall paintings, with colors so vivid it looks like it was paited yesterday, showing hands, guanacos, little people hunting, lizards and even a full moon. It is really beautifull, and more amazing if one thinks it has been there for almost 10.000 years.

On the way back, we met with the italian guy again. He took 2 rides (all payed, of course) to get there, and sayed that he would probably take the same bus as me.

Don Ugo took us to the Lake Buenos Aires, the 2nd biggest in South America, that with all the wind seemed more like the sea, with big waves.

After the day trip, Don Ugo left me in the bus station. It was 8pm, the bus was leaving only at 4.30am, and the bar was only open untill 11pm. So I would have to wait in the street (and it was really cold!!!). But again I was lucky, and the kid from the gas station invited me to stay inside with him, and all the friends he had coming and going. A weird kid.. 5 hours listening to Cumbia and Reggaeton, but at least instead of being freezing outside I was next to the heater drinking mate again.

Later, the italian guy arrived. He was having problems withdrawling money, so I bought his ticket. And so, not only I won company to travel (and we were together for 1 week), I also won a big brother, el tano (as they call italians arround here, from napoliTANO).

Bariloche

Set on the shores of a cobalt-blue surfaced lake, and framed by snow-capped Andean peaks, Bariloche really has a breathtaking setting. The bus ride from El Bolsón to Bariloche, passing by the mountains with bright yellow and purple flowers, waterfalls and, finally, the lake, is astonishing.

On the 1st day I just walked arround the city center, full of garish souvenir stores and chocolate shops & factories where they give all kinds of samples of gourmet chocolate for people to taste. The city is really pretty, with small buildings, almost all with a wood facade. Also the Museo de la Patagonia is so worth it to visit, very well made, tracing the area's Mapuche and European history.

The next day I took the bus to San Martin de los Andes. The city itself is kind of boring... however, the landscape on the way there makes the whole trip absolutely worth it. And it is possible to take the East route to get there, passing by Valle Encantado (like the movie with the dinosaurs!) and go back to Bariloche by the Ruta de los siete lagos (route of the seven lakes), that traverses dense alpine forests, mountains and brilliant blue lakes, rivers and waterfalls. Part of that route is just a bumpy dirt track, that with the rain (and it was raining) just becames a muddy mess. I was also on the front seat of the bus, listening to the conversation between the driver and his assistent (and also sharing a mate with them, I just love mate :D) about car and bus accidents. Really funny, the road was a mess, and they were there talking "oh, in this turn a car jumped off the hill", "here a bus fell to the water last week", and so on, and the panic on the face of some people.

In my last day, a bit of treaking in Circuito Chico, a circuit with forest trails to hidden beaches and lakes, very pleasent for a day excursion (and the easiest one). On the way back, I met 2 ladies (german and italian) and went back to Bariloche with them, ending up going together for a hot chocolate in Mamushcka, perfect to warm up after the whole day walking.

At night I took a bus to Perito Moreno (city). Only after buying the ticket I found out there are no hostels, no hotels, no nothing in there, and as it is in the middle of Ruta 40, there are only buses every 3/4 days, so I really didn't know what to do once I got there. Bueno, I decided to trust in luck, so far it never failed on me and I believe in taking chances (and really wanted to visit Las Cuevas de las Manos), and I went anyway.

Puerto Madryn - The Whales!!

And so it is, after 6 weeks travelling, I finally arrived in Patagonia. Instead of taking the guided tours to Peninsula Valdés and see the whales (the main point about coming to Puerto Madryn), I got together with 7 more people that I met in the bus station and we rented 2 cars. The price diference is not that much, but like this we could go where we wanted, when we wanted, and I really feel like a lemming in those tours for turists, all in the bus following the guide.

So there we go: me, an american guy, two french guys, a german and a spanish girls and a couple (he was from France, she from Japan). As strange as it may seem (at least for me), the one I liked the most was the guy from the USA... He was driving and I was co-pilot (modesty apart, I am good with maps, and this other people almost could not distinguish left from right, so we were"leading" the trip).

We rented the car the night before going to Peninsula Valdés, and the 1st thing the guy did was to turn on a one-way street, the wrong way, we just started to see all the cars coming in our direction, the spanish girl started to scream and I just couldn't stop laughing... I mean, not even 1 minute after we left the car rental place and he does that... c'mon!!! However, that was the only thing that went wrong (and nothing happend really), we was actually a very good driver.

So that was it, next morning, 7am we were leaving the hostel, trying to be in Puerto Piramides before 9am to get the 1st boat to go and see the whales. We were quite lucky and saw 8 of them, all moms and babies - one of them white, just like Moby Dick. The boats are not so big and get really close to the whales (one of them like half a meter away), that also swim under the boats and everything.

After the whales, we continued our trip going South. On the way, we saw a road that was not on the map (and actually can't really be called a road, but wtv) and lead us to the Salinas. To those who have been in Bolivia or in the North of Argentina, it was not a big deal. For me, yes!! Gourgeous, amazing, a pink lagoon surrounded by a white field!! And stepping the grass, impregnated with salt, feels like stepping popcorn. The german girl and the french guys took their clothes off and went to the water..

After their bath, there we went to a bay where the sea lions sleep. It is a big beach, on a bay with turquoise/esmerald sea, where you can see the sea lions sleeping.. and that's pretty much it. Following North, there's a peninsula with more sea lions, again the same. They are very sweet, lying in there peacefully, but... I was expecting some action, an orca jumping off the water and grabbing one of them!! Nothing, no orcas, no BBC documentary live for me.

A bit more to the North, penguins. Those yes, are the best! And are really used to people, so are like half a meter away, posing to the camera or just sleeping quietly. After the penguins, it was time to go, my bus to Bariloche was that night and we still needed to give the cars back.

They all went with me to the bus station, still with time to grab a beer and watch the River vs. Boca game, and off I go, all Patagonia is still waiting...

Buenos Aires, part III

On Friday, following Juan's advices, we went to the zoo of Luján. Almost 2 and a half hours for like 60 km of distance, but anyway.. Right on the entrance there is a place where they have most of the animals, all together, just like Noe's arch: horses, guanacos, a pig, goats, camels, ducks, you name it. Baby lions, f course, were the best, so adorable little Simbas. It is also possible to go inside the place where teenage lions and tigers are, and end the visit with a small ride in a camel.
But the perfect end for this day was the dinner in 'La Cabrera', and here comes the food again :D that has the best 'chorizo beef'. So so true.. We ate way too much, so delicious everything, really eating untill we felt sick and still ordered a dessert. All with a great wine to go with.

The next day, Saturday fair in Palermo. The fairs in BsAs are very good, and I didn't even went to the supposely best one, in San Telmo. Anything you may be looking for can be found here. In the afternoon I went to a museum, that, shame shaaaame on me, was the only one I visited. One week in BsAs and I know more restaurants and ice-cream shops than museums or theatres... And I kind of regret it, this one was increadible, specially the pre-colombian art colection.

As it was the night of the museums, we went to a show of 'Air Tango', meaning people dancing tango hanging on wires. And that was it, no more museums, again the shame, we just went to a hostel to sit talking and drinking beer for the rest of the night.
The next day my bus to Puerto Madryn was only at 8 pm, and still I did nothing all day. I guess being with portuguese people felt too good, I was for the whole week just feeling more like hanging out with them, do nothing and eat all the best things BsAs has to offer. Oh yes, almost forgot, I also tried the best empanadas and juices, the things I has mentioned before were not enough :D

More Buenos Aires

On the next day, waking up early to go to El Tigre, a small town hour away from BsAs. It is a lovelly place in the delta of the Paraná river, has many islands only accessible by boat. It is a cool place for a kind of cruise, seeing the riverfront restaurants and houses, all with their own wooden-port with small benches to wait for the 'public boat' or just to sit there fishing and enjoying the view.
In one of the islands I met a guy from Guatemala and we ended up walking arround together. Also worked for an information exchange: Juan was going to Floripa in week, so I gave him the name and contacts of Portunhol Hostel and other tips about the place, my paradise... and he told me about this zoo close to BsAs were people can touch baby lions and tigers. It was perfect and changed my plans for the day after, I wasn't going to La Plata anymore, baby lions are more important :P
Then back to BsAs it was time to go to the best ice-cream place in town, I couldn't skip it, obviously. Dulce de leche ice-cream is just the best thing ever.

Mi Buenos Aires I

In Buenos Aires I had, once again, a friend of a friend to welcome (and acomodate) me. A portuguese guy this time, that lives with other 3 portuguese guys and that were the 1st portuguese people I was with since I arrived. They were all super nice from the beggining, eventhough I didn't knew them at all.

On the 1st day, the weather was really shitty, raining and very cold, so after a small walk in the center I just gave up and went home. Also, I don't know if from being with portuguese people for the 1st time in 6 weeks or just for being tired, I just wanted to stay home and do nothing, that this of doing intensive turism ends up being a bit exausting.

The day after, Andrè went with me to the center. 1st stop: milka store. You can't skip it if you come to BsAs, I mean, it's not that big, but a whole store just for milka chocolates (with many varieties that don't exist in Pt) it's really amazing! For lunch, the best choripan in town, in San Telmo. Really delicious, and yes, so far I'm only telling about food, but this is just the beggining and actually my staying in BsAs was more a gastronomic experience than anything else.
But anyway, we visited the center, la Casa Rosada, San Telmo and El Caminito in La Boca, we went to the Boca stadium (outside) and to the cemetery in La Recoleta, where Evita's tumb is, and endes up in a comercial center where an India's Festival was taking place. With a small market, a photography exhibition (really good one!) and a dance & music performance from a group from Goa, very similar to the portuguese "corridinho".
On the way home, we stoped watching a tango performance on the street, with some really good dancers, not only from the group itself but also some people from the audience that joined them.

On the 3rd day, I went to the biggest and most beautiful bookshop in BsAs, Ateneo. It is indeed an amazing place, and not only I got lost in there for hours but also ended up spending way more than I had planned... At night we went to a Tango show in one of the oldest cafes in town, Cafe Tortoni. The musicians were amazing, the dancers not so much, but it was totally worth it, and they played "Alfonsina y el Mar" and "Volver", my favorites :)

Crossing the border

From Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires, I took a boat, 3 hours and thats it. Or should be... as I sayed, I was illegal in Uruguay, and after giving my passport hoping the lady wouldn't notice, she asked me for the entrance stamp. And I, all inocent, 'whaaaat? I don't have it, why?'. And then I had to pay, not pretty to see, despite all my Bambi eyes and saying I was a poor turist with no money, in Portugal there is a crisis right now, nothing worked, 600 pesos uruguayos just like that, snif..
The boat trip was really pretty though, to compensate a bit. Its the best to see the sunset, the stars and the lights of Buenos Aires getting closer and closer, looking so much like New York.

Al otro lado del río

Today it would be her 24th birthday.

This is for her, with whom I first saw this movie and started to dream about this trip through South America.

Sara Oliveira
1986-2008

Colonia del Sacramento

Originally a 17th century Portuguese port, Colonia holds a very portuguese feeling about it, again with some resemblance to the south of Portugal. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an absolutely must see little town, with a range of ochre and honey-colored buildings, palm and orange trees on the sea-side. It has also some of the best restaurants (including the one I had lunch in, between Calle de la Playa and Calle del Comercio, don't remember the name, but with delicious food and nice decoration and music), and that is to say a lot in Uruguay.

Yo tengo pintada en la piel
la lágrima de esta ciudad,
la misma que dá de beber,
la misma te hará naufragar.

(...)

El mar que me trajo hasta aquí,
el puerto en que habré de zarpar,
un día pensando en volver,
un día volviendo a escapar.

Un día cualquiera me iré
dejando su lágrima atrás
la pena que me haga partir
la misma me hará regresar.

Montevideo, Jorge Drexler

At home in Montevideo

So far, as in all big cities I've been staying, there is always someone to welcome me. In Montevideo I didn't know a soul, but there was a guy from Peru (thank you David!) that a friend who knew another guy that lives in Montevideo, so that was it. He went to the bus station to pick me up. As he is both a History and theater teacher, and there was a play with the kids happening that afternoon, we just went home to leave my stuff and went strait to the school, in the surroundings of the city.
That was a cool experience, as this is a program that uses theatre as an intervention method in the society in order to integrate the kids. After the play there was a party with all the groups from Montevideo, in the center.

On the next day, as he couldn't come, his father and 12 year old brother were my tourist guides, taking me to the main points of Montevideo. It is a lovely city, much more to the scale I am used to in Lisboa, with less people and space to walk around. Even the buildings remind me of Portugal, in a strange mixture of Lisboa with some cities in Algarve like Faro and Tavira. I was also lucky with the weather, a beautiful sunny day, that is perfect to go with the colorfull buildings.
And don't forget to eat a Chivito if you go to Uruguay! It is a typical food they have here, kind of like hamburger but with a very soft steak and lots of things inside (your choice), always with fried egg and mozzarella on the top.

The cultural offer is also amazing! In a Saturday night, there were so many plays to choose from, all with late night sessions and invinting prices. We went to a play called "Rescatate", a social critique from an uruguayan author, Gustavo Bouzas, that I absolutely loved. So so good. The text, the actors, all the scenography... really an amazing play.

Punta del Diablo, Uruguay

First stop in Uruguay: Chuy.
Crossing the border, from the Brazilian side, I got my passport stamped, all fast and easy. However, the bus didn't stop in the place I should get into Uruguay legally, so I just got in the country with no visa, no nothing, without even trying to, from Chuy to Punta del Diablo.

Well, whatever, I just continued the trip, the people I asked about (locals!!) it just sayed to relax, "no worries, being illegal here is not the same as in Europe", so va bene (stupid me), so I didn't care.

Punta del Diablo is a very small beach village in a Peninsula, very good for surfing (even though I don't surf, but that's just a detail), surrounded by sand dunes and forests. In fact, after Florianópolis, this beach didn't look that spectacular, and actually very similar to Costa de Caparica in foggy days: big waves and dark sea. But it is the best place to rest, almost desert, peace and quiet.

E caminando, camina, camina (next steps)

On my way to Uruguay...

Gramado, or a taste of Germany in Brazil

Gramado is a small town close to Porto Alegre. I went there with my friend, her cousin, her cousin's son and mom, like a little family weekend trip. I really enjoyed it, not only for the city itself, that is adorable, but for the family feeling with a grandma and a kid thats quite cool for a change. As this town has also italian influence, there are many restaurants with fresh pasta, a really delicious way for a small pause from the turistic walking around.

Very strange was the Xmas decoration all over the city. In here the weather is very summer already, and I didnt even realized yet that Xmas is coming.. no idea, whatever. Good thing about being a Germany/Swiss community: chocolate everywhere!!!! So many chocolate stores, with candies and giving chocolate for the clients to taste, chocolate, chocolate, chocolate od tralalalala. And the ultimate present from a friend: a mate cup full of chocolates! (I repeat, I will leave this continent way too spoiled..)

Porto Alegre

I have two friends in Porto Alegre, that studied with me in Italy for the Italian Language course. However, as both of them were working the day I arrived, a friend of them was my touristical guide for the first day. After lunch, she took me to the center of the city - to see the cathedral, the market and so on - and to a book fair. There, she sayed to this guy I was portuguese, and he was the kindest, offering me Chimarrao (the brazilian mate drink), because "it is tipical and I had to try it" and told me some stories about the South of Brazil. In the end, both as welcome and goodbye gift, he offered me two books from a writer from Rio Grande do Sul.
This is... people here in South America are extremely nice and make everybody (or at least me!) feel soooo welcome, I will end up getting spoiled.

The center of the city is very pretty. So far, from the big cities in Brazil, this was my favorite. Has big avenues, with space to breathe, many trees and the buildings are pretty as well. And as in Sao Paulo and Floripa, street art is everywhere.

The sunset in the river is another beautiful thing about Porto Alegre. Reminded me a little of Istanbul, the colors and some towers that looked like the mosque's towers, the boats.. I don's know why, but it kind of resembles.
After the sunset, time for dinner! And the meat in Rio Grande do Sul is delicious... They took me to this restaurant with an amazing churrasco service with all kinds of meat, salads and so, delicious beer and with a life show of tradicional music, dance and performances, Gaucho style!

Florianópolis - The Magic Island

Did you ever felt like you finally are home once you have just came to a place you have never been in your life? Where everything, dispite being new, looks familiar? Barra da Lagoa in Florianopolis is, for me, that place. From the first moment in here I feel more at home than in Portugal, as bad as that may sound. I have come to the point that I wish that my scholarship for the phD won't be approved, so that I can come back and stay here.
All my plan for this trip (that only included to stay here for 2 days), all the friends I've visited and the ones I will, all the places left to see are diluting... I just want to stay here.

Beautiful beaches, the landscape, a simple life, life quality above all superficial things. People that changed their lifestyle for a dream and built it with their own hands, and that really care about eachother. Love and a hut instead of an flat full of nothings in the big city.

When I arrived, I was the only guest in the hostel. Immediately they made me feel like part of the family, as the hostel had only me as a guest, but all 3 owners were there with some friends. One of them (that looks kind of like "Sawyer" from "Lost") took me for a walk and showed me the beach, the little beach (Prainha, on the 2nd photo) and the city, and also took me to a giant turtles reserve (Projeto Tamar).

The other days I just spent with the people from the hostel, having barbeques or just chillin in the beach. Reading a book in a net, playing snooker and eating sea-food in the beach. I also went to other parts in the island, only to find out that Barra da Lagoa is indeed my favorite.

There are dogs all over the beach. This two liked me (and I was sending them away, I dont even like dogs that much), so they became body-guards, following me and then sitting close to me and barking at everybody that was passing by.

Right now I am not in Floripa anymore, but I know I will come back. Not only because a friend sayed that once you come to Floripa, or you stay or you come back, but because I just know that no matter what (and still wishing for the scholarship thing to get screwed!!) I will be back really soon...

Curitiba

Between Curitiba and São Paulo, the 1st is way more pretty. But still, apart from the obvious turistic points (its good to go on the Turistic bus, in 1 afternoon everything is checked!!), doesn't have that much to see... It was really good for meeting with a friend I didn't see in a long time, but the weather was kind of shitty the whole time.

And on the road again

Sin tekoha no hay teko

Crossing the border from Brazil to Argentina is quite easy. However, the bus leaves all foreigners in Brazil's border and goes away, no explanations to anyone. For me there was no problem, just needed to ask, but for the other 2 guys that were with me in the bus (from South Africa and Spain), not so much... After the "exit stamp", we needed to wait for another bus to cross the "Ponte da Amizade", half brasilian half argentinian. This time the bus waited for everybody to stamp the passports and left us in the center of Puerto Iguazu.

Puerto Iguazu, the closest city to the Iguazu Falls from the Argentinian side, is the sweetest little town. This is the view from the Hostel Stop (really good and very cheap, about 5,50 euros/night). Its a very small town, but very colorfull and the people are really nice, the total opposite from Foz do Iguaçu, on the brasilian side.

The Falls are increadible, there's no way to describe them... the most beautiful place I have ever been to. All the suroundings, the colors, the air, butterflies and rainbows everywhere. Its paradise on earth. Kind of looks like a Disney movie scenario, a bit unreal, to perfect to be true, like between Pocahontas and Tarzan.

The "Great Adventure" is a bit expensive, but totally worth it. After a walk in the jungle, with a guide, we go in a boat trip that goes really under the falls.

One day was not enough, so I went a second day, this time with a girl from Israel that was sharing the Hostel's dorm with me. For her, this 2 and a half months trip is a small one, since she's travelling for 6 months, and the normal for Israeli people is 1 year long trips... I wish! We also had dinner together, and got to meet a spanish guy thats traveling for 2 years already, getting some short term jobs in hostels and restaurants now and then.

But the ultimate proof this is a small world was the italian guy from Perugia that I met in the Hostel as well. He's now going to the south of Argentina, maybe we'll meet again halfway.

Assis and Marilia, São Paulo

The bus trip from São Paulo to Assis, the trip was of about 5 hours. We fell asleep and ended up in a little village in the middle of nowhere (dont even remember the name...). So, instead of arriving in Assis at 5 am, we took 3 hours more. Assis is a small city, only with the University and little more, but its really nice. On the afternoon, it started to rain a looooooot, like tropical storm, the lights of half city did *kaput while we were far away from home - and having to walk all the way back -, so the day ended with a nice dinner in the candle light.

It kept raining almost all the days I spent there, but rain is good when its around 25 ºC. In Assis is also normal thing to have car trips around the city with no destination at all. Well, in Portugal we go for a coffee and stay there just talking for a couple of hours, in here they do car trips.

After Assis, we went to Marilia. The view in all the way to get there is really beautiful, with mounts and valleys with bright green vegetation and coffee plantations. Marilia is a pretty city, with a horseshoe shape around a big valley. Again, I had the sweetest reception from my friend's family, always making delicious special dishes and even with a surprise happy birthday cake. In the end, they took me to the bus station, a real family farewell.

As when I was in Istanbul, also in Marilia I had the chance to go to a class in the UNESP (University of São Paulo), this time of Law. I loved it, as in this class they discussed also about politics, and now with the elections day so close, it gets really interesting for me to get the perspective of brasilians on this subject, and not only of what I read from portuguese newspapers. After the class, we went to a kind of Students Association meeting that reminded me of ESN meetings... I miss it.

Oh, and also tried "taça de açaí" with pineapple and honey, way better than açaí juice!!

There are no photos, since my #$%&$ camera decided to delete them. I had to count till 100 not to throw it in the waterfalls.

And keep on going...