From my bus, I was the only one stopping in Perito Moreno (city), and even the driver asked if I was sure about it. I wasn't, but I stayed. On the bus station I asked about how could I go to Las Cuevas, and I was lucky, there was a guide there that was going to do the tour that afternoon with 3 other turists that were waiting in a camping park close by.
It was Saturday, and the next bus to go to El Calafate, where I wanted to go after Perito Moreno, was only leaving on Tuesday. So, I bought a ticket to go to Río Gallegos, leaving at 4.30am, so I just had to wait until then somewhere and I wouldn't have a problem with the lack of hostels (and lack of money, that is starting to feel...).
Don Ugo, the guide, took me to the camping park so that I had a place to stay while waiting. After like 20 minutes of being there, just drinking a mate, 2 guys came in. One came to me asking if I had been in Iguazu, in the Stop Hostel, like 1 month ago. I was kind of "wtf, how do you know?!"... it was the italian guy from Perugia that I met there, now with a beard so I didn't recognise him, and he was also going to Las Cuevas. The other guy that was with him, from USA, had booked the same trip I was going in. However, when Don Ugo arrived sayed there was no place for the italian, all the 4 places in the car were taken, a spanish couple was also coming with us, so he had to stay there.
Don Ugo revealed to be the best guide ever. He really knows the region and told us about the gold and silver mines that are starting to destroy the Cuevas. He even has a website (www.noalamina.org) and is a very fierce activist against the mines that treat to destroy 10.000 year-old paintings.
But moving on, the Cuevas are located in a Canyon, very similar to the Grand Canyon in Colorado. We had to walk down, cross the river and then back up. Fantastic view though, the colors are amazing, and once you get up there, Las Cuevas! 600m of wall paintings, with colors so vivid it looks like it was paited yesterday, showing hands, guanacos, little people hunting, lizards and even a full moon. It is really beautifull, and more amazing if one thinks it has been there for almost 10.000 years.
On the way back, we met with the italian guy again. He took 2 rides (all payed, of course) to get there, and sayed that he would probably take the same bus as me.
Don Ugo took us to the Lake Buenos Aires, the 2nd biggest in South America, that with all the wind seemed more like the sea, with big waves.
After the day trip, Don Ugo left me in the bus station. It was 8pm, the bus was leaving only at 4.30am, and the bar was only open untill 11pm. So I would have to wait in the street (and it was really cold!!!). But again I was lucky, and the kid from the gas station invited me to stay inside with him, and all the friends he had coming and going. A weird kid.. 5 hours listening to Cumbia and Reggaeton, but at least instead of being freezing outside I was next to the heater drinking mate again.
Later, the italian guy arrived. He was having problems withdrawling money, so I bought his ticket. And so, not only I won company to travel (and we were together for 1 week), I also won a big brother, el tano (as they call italians arround here, from napoliTANO).
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